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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest place earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary achievement.